ALTA Light Bar Install (part 1)
This isn't a full tutorial on the install but might be of some help.
I have run into a few "snags" if you will in the ALTA Light
bar/IPF lights install on 'enry, UKDragon's MCS. So far we
have about 2 lazy working days on the project and it's
1. We FINALLY installed that light bar itself, those
directions could have been better and at least it had
some pictures that came with it. Should have looked
online for a tutorial first. Here's the point to note: The
MCS bumper is bowed outward and when you measure
exactly 18" it turns into about 18 ¼" at the tip of the L
Brackets. No biggie, with some tugging you can get that
puppy to connect.
2. Installing electrical wires for the 4 IPF driving lights
(extra high-beams) was basically easy except I got stuck
on the getting the wires from the engine compartment
through the firewall and into the cabin. The firewall is
hard to get to and IMPOSSIBLE to get a good drilled hole
in, not that i wanted to drill- the directions kept telling
me to use an existing grommet and the one most people
told me to use "the one with a thousand wires on the
driver side going in just in front of the steering wheel."
Yea, there was no way I was going to open that up. But it
did get me looking in the right direction and I found a
plastic cap that led right into the cabin with no problem
at all!!! Just drill a hole in that and make a slit to the
center to put the wires through, worked GREAT! Here's
Match the colors, need to have centers on, or outside on
as stand alone for maximum coolness!
Places i drilled holes for the wires:
This is exactly where you put the wires through. On the
right side of the power steering.
3. According to both sheets of directions we were done.
But those stupid push-button on/off switches just won't
do in the Mini. It turns out that 'enry has 2 empty toggle
switches on the toggle switch panel. So we bought some
basic toggle switches to install there. We easily got the
toggle switches working with the lights (flip on = armed,
still have to switch to high-beams to turn them on).
THE QUESTION (1): I tried for about an hour to get into
the toggle switch pannel w/o any luck. There is 1 screw I
can't get to, the plastic piece beneath the steering wheel
needs to swing down (or get taken off) in order for me to
get to the top screw. Anyone know how to get it off?
Pic taken from inside & behind the steering wheel, no
idea what ANYTHING is back there or what's hoding that
piece on. So I started labeling random parts:
THE QUESTION (2): We want to protect these lights
from rocks and such but don't want to cover them up
with the supid looking IPF covers. We would like to cover
with Union Jack covers, solid colored/blank ones to paint
on ourselves, (anyone know if they make?) or leave them
bare but with a protective seal. What do are your
thoughs on getting a roll of this:
Otherwise this job has turned out SWEET. (thanks to
some help from other NAM members) Right now the
lights are working great but they are always 'armed' so
any time you flip to high-beams you get 8 lights (yes,
driving + high beams + Rally lights) BLARE!
That's 440W of light. Can't wait to put in the 100W bulbs
(620W TOTAL !!!)
Run the wires through the bonnet first before soldering.
The best way to fish the wires through the bonnet was to
use a coat hanger, then attach the wires to it and pull it
Connecting the relays to the trigger of the high-beams. I
decided it was easier to solder 1 time than it was to solder
2 times so I soldered both lights up to the same termal. After
using a volt meeter, it turned out that the correct termal to
solder to is the white wire.